moving piem

Chris and Marie entering Guanajuato

The next morning, I caught up with Marie and Chris who were waiting for me at a bus stop, just outside Aguascalientes, on the road to Leon. We teamed up to cycle South together. After 3000km, it was nice to share the road with other cyclists!

We camped in the bush a couple of times, cooked delicious pastas on our stoves, and enjoyed sunsets and sunrises. Passing through Leon, two journalists stopped us for an interview!

For our last night camping before arriving in Guanajuato, with the kind blessing of the local farmer, we enjoyed a beautiful star gazing night. We woke up the next day to ride the last 10km to the city.

Geographic center of Mexico

After a nice downhill ride from Zacatecas, I arrived at the end of the afternoon in Aguascalientes. Melissa, my CouchSurfing host, was still at work. I stopped at la 'Plaza de los Mariachis', where local bands wait for people to hire them for weddings, 15 years birthdays, and such events.

I arrived a bit early in Aguascalientes and Melissa was still at work, so I went for a Chamoyada, a delicious ice cream with mango, kiwi, and chamoy. While I was eating this delicious sweet and chili thing, a guy on a scooter stopped by to order two to go.

"Were those your friends that have already arrived?", he asked. "Where?!" I replied. "De courtesia", said the nice lady, inviting me to the chamoyada. Thank you! And off I was, following Alberto on his scooter, showing me around the city by night on the way to the restaurant. ... more

Morning lights in Real

After a few days in pretty Zacatecas and before going South, I went to the desert in the state of San Luis Potosi. For the first time since entering Mexico, I jumped into a bus or three, and after six or seven hours sitting in buses, ended up in Real de Catorce.

Real de Catorce is famous for being a sacred place in both Huichol and Christian cultures. It's also very high, with mountains around Real reaching 3000m. So I took a few warm clothes, unfold my backpack out of my panniers, and took a bus for San Luis de Potosi.

Just a few hundred meters down this mountain is a flat desert at 200m, home of a well known cactus, which has been used forever as a medecine by the Huichol people. I went down hiking by foot, met with Monica and Felipe who own two dozens of goats there, and got lost in the desert for a couple of days before returning to Zacatecas.

Las quinze letras

Abraham, my CouchSurfing host, found me in a little restaurant of the city center. I followed him and his green Beetle to his house. He is the oldest brother of a family of seven. They live a large house in Guadalupe, right next to Zacatecas.

I had a great time with Abraham. We went out to chill in the local bars, hiked up the rocky hill of la Encantada to get a beautiful view of the city, and wandered in the markets. His family adopted me like a son and it was great to feel like a local for a week. We had very interesting discussions with his father about his studies in rural ethnology.

To reach Guanajuato, Abraham advised me to go South, via Aguascalientes, instead of goint East, towards San Luis Potosi, as the road would be more interesting. But before heading South, I wanted to go to Real de Catorce. In the end, my bike and I stayed more than a week altogether. Gracias hermano!

Playing football with the rangers

It's about 300 km to cycle from Durango to Zacatecas. It took me four days. I spent one of them hiking in the Sierra de Organos, some strange columns in a National Park of stone not far North from Route #45.

I had four ranger guides just for me! We went hiking in caves, climbed on nice view points and climbed some nice stones. At night, they proposed me to stay at the ranger quarters! I had my nice little flat, just above the National Park gate, and the guard that night was happy to have some company.

I also spent a nice night with the stars next to a chili factory, and another one at the lovely Raimondo's ranch. When I asked Raimondo, I ended up with a full house, with kitchen, bathroom, hot shower, and was even invited to share coffee with his mum. Thank you!