moving piem

Chris and Marie entering Guanajuato

The next morning, I caught up with Marie and Chris who were waiting for me at a bus stop, just outside Aguascalientes, on the road to Leon. We teamed up to cycle South together. After 3000km, it was nice to share the road with other cyclists!

We camped in the bush a couple of times, cooked delicious pastas on our stoves, and enjoyed sunsets and sunrises. Passing through Leon, two journalists stopped us for an interview!

For our last night camping before arriving in Guanajuato, with the kind blessing of the local farmer, we enjoyed a beautiful star gazing night. We woke up the next day to ride the last 10km to the city.

Geographic center of Mexico

After a nice downhill ride from Zacatecas, I arrived at the end of the afternoon in Aguascalientes. Melissa, my CouchSurfing host, was still at work. I stopped at la 'Plaza de los Mariachis', where local bands wait for people to hire them for weddings, 15 years birthdays, and such events.

I arrived a bit early in Aguascalientes and Melissa was still at work, so I went for a Chamoyada, a delicious ice cream with mango, kiwi, and chamoy. While I was eating this delicious sweet and chili thing, a guy on a scooter stopped by to order two to go.

"Were those your friends that have already arrived?", he asked. "Where?!" I replied. "De courtesia", said the nice lady, inviting me to the chamoyada. Thank you! And off I was, following Alberto on his scooter, showing me around the city by night on the way to the restaurant. ... more

Las quinze letras

Abraham, my CouchSurfing host, found me in a little restaurant of the city center. I followed him and his green Beetle to his house. He is the oldest brother of a family of seven. They live a large house in Guadalupe, right next to Zacatecas.

I had a great time with Abraham. We went out to chill in the local bars, hiked up the rocky hill of la Encantada to get a beautiful view of the city, and wandered in the markets. His family adopted me like a son and it was great to feel like a local for a week. We had very interesting discussions with his father about his studies in rural ethnology.

To reach Guanajuato, Abraham advised me to go South, via Aguascalientes, instead of goint East, towards San Luis Potosi, as the road would be more interesting. But before heading South, I wanted to go to Real de Catorce. In the end, my bike and I stayed more than a week altogether. Gracias hermano!

Playing football with the rangers

It's about 300 km to cycle from Durango to Zacatecas. It took me four days. I spent one of them hiking in the Sierra de Organos, some strange columns in a National Park of stone not far North from Route #45.

I had four ranger guides just for me! We went hiking in caves, climbed on nice view points and climbed some nice stones. At night, they proposed me to stay at the ranger quarters! I had my nice little flat, just above the National Park gate, and the guard that night was happy to have some company.

I also spent a nice night with the stars next to a chili factory, and another one at the lovely Raimondo's ranch. When I asked Raimondo, I ended up with a full house, with kitchen, bathroom, hot shower, and was even invited to share coffee with his mum. Thank you!

Church in Durango

Pablo proposed pick me up with his truck, but I wanted to cycle all the way way to his house. Just as I arrived in the center of Durango, sprinkled with severe road bumps, the front rack went into the wheel again. Luckily the spokes were not too damaged, but this time the rack was pretty badly damaged.

With his father, Pablo helped me finding a workshop which could solder aluminium. After asking at a few places, we found a 'taller de califacion' who could do it. I watched the man carefully unbending the rack and soldering it as well as he could. After a few minutes, my old rack was looking almost as new again. And Pablo had a spray of black paint. Great, a recycled rack!

We went in town with Pablo and his girlfirend Annahad some delicious tacos, before I went to crash in my confy bed at Pablo's house. Even after a good night, I was still a bit tired, and feeling way too confortable at Pablo's house! So I asked him if I could stay one more night. “Of course!” he said. ... more